[GUIDE] Quiet fan replacement for AORUS Gaming Box GTX 1080/1070
Would like to report that I tried a series of different 40x20 fans for the PSU, and finally settled on NMB 1608VL-04W-B40-B00.
(How do I upload a photo of the fans I tried?)
On paper, the fan has similar spec to Sunon fans. However in practice, this NMB is even quieter than the PSU's switching noise. When I first installed this model I thought the fan was dead and I had to use a piece of paper to make sure there's air flow and fan is spinning. When at full power it is also quieter than Sunon, although just a little bit.
One issue with this fan is its screw holes are smaller than stock model. You will need to bore the holes a bit so the protruding part on the PSU's shell can fit in.
This one goes for about $10 on Mouser or DigiKey. Not bad considering the much greater performance. There's also a B50 model with >10 CFM rating, I have not yet put it into my box, but will give it a try later.
Also as a lesson learned, do not put thin machine oil into the fan's ball bearing. It causes a lot of high pitched noise. I am waiting for some high quality grease to be delivered and try if I can repair one that I wasted.
Hello! I recently got my 1070 box and looking into trying these out.
I have a question though. I don't understand why the PSU fan is configured to pull the air from inside the box. Can I try reversing the PSU fan? or maybe the thermometer is placed near the fan, ending up screwing the fan speed control?
I hope I didn't do an unnecessary post necromancy
As far as I'm concerned, i think the idea behind this is to make sure the hot air doesn't escape into the enclosure. Usually it's a better choice to go with positive pressure, but i think in this case, it's actually better to make sure the thermal energy is disposed of properly and thereby the pull design. This is just speculation, but i highly recommend not changing the flow direction.
Having taken it apart to get the case fans connected back then, i remember that the PSU has a plastic sort of inner casing, possibly to avoid shorts, and - as far as i remember - this plastic also blocks many of the air vents you can see around the PSU. The only open one is the big one facing the side of the eGPU enclosure to pull air in, which leads me to believe they already put the plastic there so the PSU doesn't suck in warm air from the graphics card instead of the - supposedly - cooler outside. It's also possible the PSU design is made so the parts that need the most cooling are placed just so that the pull design prefers to cool those, while with pushing air in, and especially turning the flow direction around, could result in those vital components getting less cooling. Keep in mind, this is all my assumption and potential theory, it may even result in better cooling. In the end, you can only give it a try and hope it works out, for me, I didn't see any profit in changing the design so far, it all worked and still works well with the modifications i made, even after 10 months.
@ishikawa_goemon if you're still looking to reduce the GPU temperatures, I can highly recommend looking into undervolting the GPU! On my GTX 1070 undervolting resulted in a reduced power draw of almost 40 % while still maintaining the same performance. Since it's electronics we're talking about, almost 100% of electrical energy are converted into thermal energy, which means that the reduction of power draw on the gpu/card results in significantly lower gpu and enclosure temperatures (and possibly reduced component wear as well)
I just wanted to thank everyone involved in this thread, that's been a great source of information and motivation for me.
I finally got around to replacing the fans in my Gaming Box and I can't believe the difference ! I used to rely on Gigabyte's flaky 1.3 firmware for the Holtek HT32F52342 Microcontroller and got tired of having to reset the gaming box when macOS killed it on boot or randomly when going to / waking up from sleep.
I'm now back on Firmware 1.1 which is very stable on both macOS & Windows.
I've put a Sunon KDE1204PKV1 in the PSU and two Xilence XPF40 on the side. The XPF40 cost me 3,33€ and are quiet (19 dB), I think they'll pull enough airflow (6.9 CFM @ 4.500 RPM) for the usage I have and Scottish chill room temperature.
As mentioned previously the Sunon screw holes are larger than the screws, so I used heat-shrink tubing to make it a tight fit and it worked perfectly. I had to cut the fan a little to let the wire through and the result looks good.
The Xlience fans are 3 pin so I've not connected the yellow wire but they spin up fine.
I have yet to see how it goes under prolonged high load, but for day to day work it's an amazing improvement.
What if I change 8.8CFM PSU Fan to 7.7 CFM (Sunon MF40200V2-10000-A99) I also have 7.0 CFM (Sunon MF40101V2-10000-A99) as a side fans.
How risky it is and what problems can it cause in worst case scenario? Does PSU have some kind of thermal protection? (turn off at high temp)
I also replaced my fans, but I was a bit unlucky I guess. I used the same fans as Christoph Stiller on the first page.
2 x SUNON HA40101V4 4500 RPM, 5.3 CFM (9 m3/h) @ 18.2 dB
1 x SUNON MB40201VX 8200 RPM, 10.8 CFM (18 m3/h) @ 27.5 dB
The side fans are really good. They are really quiet when spinning and almost not noticeable, but the fan for the PSU is "trash". It's giving off a really high frequent noise and rattles a bit. It was so annoying that I put the original fan back in, though this one rattles too... Maybe it's just me hearing this high frequent noise, or the fan is damaged. Now I'm thinking about ordering a different one, as there are many suggestions in this thread.
@panchamolo, the problem is the vibration from the fan inside the PSU. If you turn the fan outside the case - it will be quite.
i will try to use silicone temperature-resistive glue to isolate fan vibration
@webrok, I tested the Sunon fan after I removed it and the high frequent noise was still there. It's funny because both fans are rattling, but only the Sunon fan is making this noise. The side fans are really quiet though.