[Help!] Akitio Thunder2 and Power Overload: A Cautionary Tale
Let me ask: if you just replace the power brick so it feeds more power but you do not overclock then you can run a GTX 1050 or such safely?
I use it just to play games, csgo, i never overclocked
I'm not sure if the power relay modification might actually help you, but I think it does protect users from frying their Akitio boxes with more demanding GPUs that suck a lot of power through the PCIe slot. This is not actually a mod I came up with and is something people have been experimenting with over at the other forums.
This particular setup has been advised by Goalque to me. I don't think that Akitio's advice to only have a bigger power source into the barrel plug is very wise, because you basically run out of spec of the board.
In my setup I don't do any taping tricks and the board is not powered by the J4 cable bridge any longer. It involves some difficult soldering though.
First I remove the cable going from J4 to J2 on the Thunderbolt board, this cuts the power from the boards MOFSET.
I also soldered in C3 and C4, which are basically to stabilise incoming power from the barrel plug. Not really needed, but for some cards it can make a difference in stability.
Now for the hard part, where I connect two thick wires from the underside of J6 to A1, A2, B1, B2 on the PCIe slot. My cables came from a donor power supply that was broken, they are really thick making it hard to not overlap two pads and getting enough heat in them without melting the insulation. I created a bridge between A1 -> A2 and B1 -> B2 with some solder, but it is not particularly required.
Is it just mine or my c3 and c4 does not have the “drum” thingy? Did you add them yourself?
I had the same problem with the transistor FDC610PZ. But this position was not on sale in my city (need to wait for 2-3 weeks).
And I ordered an analogue from the availability: IRFTS9342TRPBF. Resolder and working perfectly. I think available for use any P-channel 30V MOSFET in TSOP-6 housing.
How did you resolder it?
Hi....i am a new user here. As per my knowledge the two large drain and source traces are very obvious. The gate looks like it goes to that thin trace near it going diagonally, but double check it with a meter.You can run wires from the 4 drain pins to the right side of that large ceramic capacitor if you need to. If the pad near the source pin is blown out, you can scrape some of the green resist off the trace and put a jumper wire in the middle of those 4 vias.
I couldn't power it back on so it took the whole thing apart to check. Didn't find anything abnormal.